Farmbrarian

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Throughout time, humans have domesticated a few select animals to meet their tastes for meat and poultry. In both categories, four species dominate the market: cows, pigs, sheep, and goats for meat and chickens, turkeys, ducks, and geese for poultry. In his new book Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food (2010), Paul Greenberg investigates the fish that most often occupy our plates.

Over time, salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna have emerged as top choices for seafood. Greenberg discusses how the fish gained widespread popularity and the threats each now face as a result. He delves into how humans have attempted to develop aquaculture systems to supplement decreasing wild stocks. And he speculates on the future of the four species.

Our expansive oceans lead most to believe seafood supplies are endless. But fish populations are extremely fragile and cannot support the demand of an ever-increasing human population. More consumers need to be made aware of the complexities associated with seafood. Greenberg’s book gives readers just that.

For a detailed synopsis and excerpt read NPR’s coverage of the book here.

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Award-winning journalist and non-fiction writer Taras Grescoe takes readers on a whirlwind tour of our oceans within his 2008 book Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood. Grescoe seamlessly integrates cultural culinary traditions, investigative reporting and travel writing within the book.

Grescoe begins in New York City where he explores how monkfish gained popularity and how catching the elusive fish harms ocean floors. From there, he moves around the globe: cod in England, sardines in the Mediterranean, shrimp in India, and so on. As Grescoe visits each country, he samples local fare, mingles with fishermen and fishmongers, and discusses the threats facing regional species and waters. Grescoe explains in detail concerns such as overfishing, invasive species and pollution.

Bottomfeeder is meticulously researched and eloquently written. For environmentally conscious consumers who want to learn how to responsibly eat seafood, this is a must-read. Even those well versed in the threats facing our oceans will learn something by reading this book.

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“We need to fence the range, even in the wildest and remotest parts of the ocean. And we should not weep for the death of the cowboy” (327).

Author Charles Clover refers to fishermen as cowboys in this analogy lifted from his book The End of the Line: How Overfishing Is Changing the World and What We Eat (2008). Clover explains that overfishing is an urgent concern worldwide, and action can no longer be delayed no matter who will be affected. Ultimately, if appropriate steps aren’t taken, the affects of overfishing will extend much further than just fishermen.

The book touches on nearly every aspect of fishing: fishing practices and technology, resistance to limiting catch, history, canned tuna, methods of action and more. The End of the Line will certainly change the habits of anyone who reads it. Those changes of habit, coupled with changes in law all around the world, are almost certainly necessary to avoid the collapse of many fishing stocks, similar to stocks that have already collapsed (ex: Atlantic Cod) and devastated more than just local ‘cowboys.’

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The Viarsa, a fishing vessel registered in Uruguay but owned in Spain, has loaded up on illegally caught Patagonian toothfish (commonly called Chilean Sea Bass), and is now on the run. In pursuit is Southern Supporter, a Fisheries and Patrol vessel belonging to the Australian government. Unarmed and unsure how to proceed, Southern Supporter decides to pursue the chase. What results, is probably the longest pursuit on the high seas in history. At stake, ultimately, is the fate of our world’s oceans, which were once thought to be an endless source of food. Author G. Bruce Knecht articulates this incredible true story in his book Hooked: Pirates, Poaching and the Perfect Fish (2006).

The Southern Supporter’s actions, along with many others attempts to thwart illegal pirating, have helped shape the current international policy on protecting fisheries around the world.

While parts of the book read like fiction, the rest is an interesting and informative look at the state of global fishing stocks and what is being done to ensure the survival of endangered species and ecosystems. I started the book with the understanding that sustainable fishing is important. I didn’t realize, however, how important it truly is, and just how severely overfished many species and areas are. Perhaps most shocking though, is the regular consumer’s complete lack of understanding and general apathy about the fish on their plate and the fish remaining in the sea.

This is a message that absolutely must be heard, and author G. Bruce Knecht does his part with the enlightening and entertaining book Hooked.

Keep an eye out in April as we post two more reviews on books about sustainable fishing and the current state of the world’s fishing stocks.